#AtoZChallenge: Paestum, Italy

The Poseidon Temple, built around 450 BC, boasts 36 fluted columns. Photo © Diane Weidenbenner

On my trip to Italy, with a close friend, we visited the must-see places in Rome, Florence, Pisa and Tuscany. We rented a car while we were there and drove down the Amalfi Coast one day, on our way to Paestum, in the Campania region.

The guide book mentioned that at one time, Greek ruins second only to Greece could be found in the small coastal town at the end of the peninsula. The guide book cautioned us that the three great Doric temples were mostly rubble, but it was worth the trip if you were in the area.

A bit of history. Paestum was built by Greeks from Sybaris around 450 BC. In 273 BC, the Romans took possession of the city and renamed it Paestum, adding a forum and amphitheater. As a result of the numerous attacks of the Saracenes and because it had become a malaria district, the last inhabitants left in the 9th century. Surrounded and buried by swamps, the city remained hidden for more than 900 years. In 1748, due to new road construction, the well-preserved temples were rediscovered and excavated.

Back to our expedition. It took us longer to drive down the Coast planned. It’s quite curvy and treacherous (those James Bond movies were pretty accurate) so we took our time. It was late afternoon and we almost turned around and headed back to Tuscany.

Temple of Athena or Ceres Temple. Photo © Diane Weidenbenner

Once we arrived in Paestum, we had trouble locating the ruins. We saw many signs advertising Mozzarella di Bufala (Buffalo Mozzarella), another well-known treasure of Campania. We found another set of tourists who were looking for the ruins so we followed them, hoping they knew where they were going. How impressive could they be if we couldn’t even find them?

We tried one last avenue to reach the ruins and turned left, then right, and continued down the road. All of a sudden the ruins appeared like a mirage in the desert. It was a good thing we were persistent. What a spectacular site! Not only were they not just a pile of rubble. They were completely accessible, allowing visitors to climb up into them, scaling the tall, time-tested limestone steps. There were flowers and plants growing out of every crevice where seeds had found their way, which added to the beauty. Considering how majestic and beautiful they are, they seemed like the best kept secret in Italy, and one of our favorite places that we visited. We paid a small admission at the gate and after entering, there were no restrictions.

I closed my eyes and could practically hear the hustle and bustle of that exciting time in history. I remember touching the cool limestone and how I appreciated the rich gold hue in the late-afternoon sun. If you visit Italy and venture outside Rome and Florence, you must take a day trip or even stay overnight in Paestum, so as to visit the beautiful, mysterious Paestum ruins.